A winter travel guide to Svalbard, Norway's High Arctic archipelago
Rising out of the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean, roughly halfway between the northernmost tip of mainland Norway and the North Pole, is a chain of islands characterised by vast glaciers, barren swathes of frozen tundra, awe-inspiring fjords and flat-topped mountains with serrated edges. This is Svalbard, where polar bears and reindeer roam the Arctic wilderness, the sun doesn’t rise for two-and-a-half months during winter, and it’s permanently light for four months between late April and late August.
Part of the Kingdom of Norway since 1925 (but outside of the Schengen area and a visa-free zone), Svalbard is Europe’s most remote outpost, comprising nine main islands. Only the largest one, Spitsbergen, is inhabited by humans, most of whom live and work in Longyearbyen – originally established as a mining community in the early 1900s, and today the world’s northernmost town with a population of more than 1,000. Longyearbyen aside, the only other sizeable settlements are the Russian-operated coal mining town of Barentsburg and the scientific research station of Ny-Ålesund.
It’s an extraordinary place to visit all year round, but there’s no better time to experience Svalbard at its most majestic than the winter months. Here’s all you need to know to start planning your trip.
Getting there
For somewhere so remote, Svalbard is remarkably straightforward to get to. Norwegian Air and Scandinavian Airlines operate regular flights between Svalbard and Tromsø, the largest city in the far north of mainland Norway, with a duration of around an hour and 20 minutes. You can also fly from Oslo, but the flights still make a short stop in Tromsø en route for immigration clearance as you exit the Schengen Area.
Upon arrival in Svalbard, there’s an airport shuttle bus that’ll take you into Longyearbyen (a journey of just 10 minutes), stopping at most of the main hotels in town.
When to go
When pondering the best time to visit Svalbard, the first thing to note is that it’s a place of radical extremes between seasons. From the end of October through to early March, the sun never fully rises above the mountaintops, and from around the middle of November through to the middle of January, the sun remains at least six degrees below the horizon and there is essentially no daylight at all. So, while the Polar Night lasts more than 100 days, this doesn’t equate to total darkness throughout this period – the amount of daylight varies quite significantly.
Early February is a particularly special time in Svalbard as the gradual return of the sun (though still not quite visible) creates a mellow, subtly shifting palette of blues, pinks and purples across the sky during the daytime. It’s just bright enough to be able to appreciate the epic, snow-covered landscapes, without it being fully light at any point. March, April and May are also excellent months to visit, as the landscapes still wear their winter colours and the days grow longer until the sun doesn’t set at all from around 20 April, bathing Svalbard in 24/7 daylight all the way through until the last week of August.
In general, Svalbard has a significantly milder climate than most other places at similar latitudes, particularly on the west coast due to the warm ocean currents brought northwards by the Gulf Stream. Climate change, too, is having an increasingly significant impact in Svalbard, which is warming at a rate six times the global average. Winter temperatures can vary quite drastically even on a day-to-day or week-to-week basis, so between December and March, you could experience anything from 0°C to -30°C. Typically, though, temperatures tend to hover in the region of -8°C to -20°C in Longyearbyen during the winter months.
It tends to be much colder further inland than on the coast, and the Arctic wind chill can be extremely bitter – hence why tour operators provide high quality thermal suits before you head out into the wilderness.
As for the Northern Lights, October to February is the prime window of opportunity. Bear in mind, though, that Svalbard is actually so far north that it’s slightly beyond the central belt of the auroral oval, so the Northern Lights are usually not as intense as what you’ll see in the far north of mainland Norway, Sweden or Finland.
How long to go for
It’s perfectly possible to get a taste of Svalbard in a long weekend, perhaps as an extension of a trip to Tromsø. Spend a day exploring Longyearbyen, and another day on a snowmobiling or husky sledding trip. You’ll only just be scratching the surface, though, and you’ll almost certainly wish you didn’t have to leave so soon.
If you can spare four or five days, or perhaps even a week, you’ll get a much deeper and more rounded impression of Svalbard without feeling like you’re trying to cram it all in.
Things to do
For starters, it’s definitely worth setting aside a day just to stroll around Longyearbyen and get a feel for life in the world’s northernmost town. It’s a lot more energetic and cosmopolitan than you might expect for such a remote settlement at 78° N – there’s a cinema, a sports centre, a university campus, a compact shopping mall, a plethora of outdoor clothing stores, and a surprisingly plentiful choice of bars, cafes and restaurants.
After perusing the main street and the iconic rows of colourful timber houses which have become so synonymous with Longyearbyen, continue up the valley to Nybyen, a small settlement originally built for mining workers in the 1940s, before looping back into town and taking in the magnificent views as you go.
A walk to the famous polar bear sign, inscribed with the warning ‘Gjelder hele Svalbard’ (applies all over Svalbard), is practically obligatory. There are several of these signs, marking the outer limits of the safe zone beyond which it’s prohibited to walk without firearms for polar bear protection. The most photographed one is around a 15-20 minute walk from the town centre, heading southeast along the main road.
Outside of Longyearbyen, the best means of venturing out into Svalbard’s pristine wilderness are snowmobile or husky sled. There are several highly reputable operators to choose from (I can highly recommend Svalbard Adventures from personal experience), offering tours ranging from a few hours to several days. Departing from Adventdalen, the valley just outside of town, they’ll take you to frozen fjords, mighty glaciers and ice caves, also giving you a chance to catch a glimpse of Svalbard’s unique wildlife as you go. Polar bear sightings are possible (more commonly on the east coast, where there’s sea ice), but you’re far more likely to see reindeer.
Other popular activities include snowshoe hikes to the mountains around Longyearbyen (accompanied by a qualified guide), coal mine tours, visiting the Global Seed Vault, and beer tasting at Svalbard Bryggeri, the world’s northernmost brewery. You could also stop by the Svalbard Museum if you’re keen to dig deeper into the archipelago’s history, nature and culture.
Where to eat and drink
No one comes to Svalbard primarily for the culinary scene, but you’ll find that Longyearbyen has a surprisingly varied choice of restaurants, bars and cafes. Here are a few recommendations to point you in the right direction.
Huset: modern, Nordic bistro restaurant in a former bridge room from the 1950s, specialising in seasonal ingredients from Svalbard – also has a wine cellar with over 15,000 bottles. Probably the fanciest and most memorable dining experience you can have in Longyearbyen, situated a couple of kilometres from the town centre in the valley.
Funken Lodge: another of Longyearbyen’s fancier dining establishments, offering four-course and seven-course tasting menus with some Svalbard specialities such as reindeer and locally-caught cod, as well as international flavours. Also an ideal spot for a cocktail or a glass of wine with fantastic views overlooking the town.
Vinterhagen Restaurant: not as fancy as Huset or Funken Lodge, but an excellent, more affordable place to try authentic, Arctic-inspired cuisine in a unique setting – a plant-filled, heated conservatory with a warm, cosy ambience.
Restaurant Kroa: rustic, timber-clad interior, and a varied menu of pizzas, burgers, soups, sandwiches and hearty main dishes – a solid, no-frills choice for a satisfying lunch or dinner.
Cafe Fruene: superb little cafe serving delicious cakes and pastries, soups and sandwiches and hot lunch dishes, as well as artisan chocolates made in Longyearbyen.
Cafe Huskies: come for a hot drink and a slice of cake; stay for cuddles with the huskies.
Svalbard Bryggeri: you can’t come all the way to Svalbard and not have a beer (or three) in the world’s northernmost brewery. It’s just a short walk from the centre of town, and you can also book a tasting session to learn all about how the various lagers, IPAs and porters are made (containing glacial water) right here at 78 degrees north.
Karlsberger Pub: it would be quite easy to miss this pub tucked away in the corner of the shopping area if you didn’t know it was there. Lively atmosphere on a Friday or Saturday night, and a fantastic selection of draft beers and whiskies in particular.
Where to stay
Despite its compact size, Longyearbyen caters well to a wide range of tastes and budgets with its multitude of accommodation options. Here are a few recommendations to give you a taste of what’s available.
Funken Lodge: stylish boutique hotel on a small hill just outside the town centre, featuring elegant rooms, a gym, a sauna, a lovely bar and one of the best restaurants in town.
Radisson Blu Polar Hotel: sleek, modern hotel with its own pub and restaurant, and wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and the fjord.
Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg: quirky and cosy in equal measure, these former miner’s barracks have been converted into what is arguably Longyearbyen’s most characterful place to stay. The main lounge is perfect for relaxing on comfy sofas after a day of exploring, the breakfast buffet is superb, and the conservatory dining room is a brilliantly unique place in which to eat. There’s a communal kitchen, too.
Basecamp Spitsbergen: rustic, driftwood furnishings and various expedition paraphernalia give this hotel the ambience of a proper polar retreat, designed in the style of traditional Svalbard trapper’s huts. Right in the centre of Longyearbyen
Svalbard Hotel – The Vault: simple, minimalist-style hotel in a convenient spot just across the road from the supermarket and main street.
Gjestehuset 102: former miner’s accommodation transformed into a cosy and comfortable hostel in Nybyen – around a 30-minute walk from central Longyearbyen. Probably the best budget-friendly accommodation in Svalbard.
